Carlisle

Our first night was spent in Carlisle, which once served as defense point when the English/Scottish border was a little further south than it is today. Carlisle is home to one of my favorite cathedrals (Britain's smallest). I visited the city back in 2009 when I was doing research for my master's thesis, but Steve had never been. It's an easy drive from Preston, so it was a logical starting point. After we left Long Meg, we went straight to Carlisle.

This is Carlisle Castle. We did not go inside this trip. From the 12th until the early 17th centuries, Carlisle Castle was one of England's principal fortresses against Scotland. It was the most besieged place in Britain, having been under siege ten times in its history. I remember rooms inside that still contain the carvings made by soldiers holed up there during one particularly long siege.

We crossed the main road via an elevated walkway. This is a view down one of the streets toward the cathedral.

This is Carlisle Cathedral, the smallest cathedral in England. It was originally much larger. Much of the church was knocked down during Cromwell's Commonwealth (the time after Charles I was beheaded and Britain was no longer a monarchy, but a commonwealth under the leadership of Oliver Cromwell).

This is how expansive the cathedral was in 1540. My initial reaction was one of anger against Cromwell for tearing down so much of the church. But Steve and I spoke with one of the guides inside the cathedral and he explained that the parts that Cromwell tore down were already in a horrible state. Cromwell actually did the cathedral a favor in removing the rotten parts.

The cathedral dates to 1133 and was originally an Augustinian priory. This wall was part of one of the original outer prior buildings that remain on the grounds.

The beautiful interior of the cathedral demonstrates that you don't have to be huge to be impressive. When I first visited the cathedral in 2009, I arrived shortly after the end of the Celtic mass. Incense smoke still clung to the air and the energy from the service was palpable. I remember that I just found a pew and marked for a long time. It was the first time I had experienced that warm, cozy feeling in a church. I guess that's what got me hooked. 

The east window behind the altar. I admit to some trepidation about the second visit. I had spoken so lovingly of the cathedral to Steve that I feared it wouldn't live up to my (or his) expectations. We arrived late in the afternoon, long after the last service, but you could still detect the faint smell of the incense (a smell I absolutely adore, by the way). Happily, it still felt as wonderful four years later as it did my first visit in 2009.

This is the bishop's throne and a glimpse of the cathedral's magnificent choir ceiling.

The choir ceiling is a wooden barrel vault that was completed in the mid-14th century. It was refurbished in 1858 when it was given this fantastic new paint scheme.

My attempt at an artistic shot of the eagle lectern and the pulpit in the choir.

This photo would have been better if my camera didn't have such a hard time with dim lighting. One thing I like about these old churches is all the little alcoves and chapels you find tucked into the walls.

Some more of the stunning stained glass.

The next few photos are of some of the miserichords found in Carlisle Cathedral. The central figure in this one reminds me of a Viking ship. I don't think Carlisle has much in the way of Viking heritage, though, so maybe it's just a dragon.

This fellow reminds me of the god, Pan.

Birds butting heads?

Something out of a nightmare?

On the back of the choir stalls are these painted wooden panels of the twelve apostles. They were painted between 1485 and 1490.

This is the St. Wilfrid's Chapel, Brougham, triptych. A triptych is a form of art presented in three panels. This wood carving was made in Antwerp in the late 15th to early 16th centuries. It bears the mark of Antwerp's woodcarvers' guild. It was brought in the 1840s to St. Wilfrid's Chapel in Brougham and was later moved to Carlisle Cathedral. It depicts the passion of Christ.

Another view of the triptych.

The crosier of the Bishop of Carlisle. The design looks like a shepherd's hook, which is deliberate since the bishopric is seen as a pastoral office.

This ornate cross was displayed with the crosier. I don't know if it has a special name or not.

The pipe organ. A pipe organ has been in the cathedral since the 16th century. This organ, which boasts 32 pipes, has been reworked so many times that I honestly don't know which parts date to which era. This is the view of the organ from within the choir.

Here are some of the pipes as seen from the other side.

And from directly beneath them.

This is the war memorial chapel. We visited shortly after Armistice Day, so the poppy wreaths remained. I think they may stay in place throughout the month of November. Each of the cabinets holds a book listing the names of those from Carlisle who died at war for Great Britain.

The plaque dedicated to those who died in World War I.

A vivid yellow tree out in the church yard that my camera did not do justice.

After our visit to the cathedral, Steve and I had a wander in the city. This is the city's war memorial.

The Christmas tree was up and lit. It was a real tree. It only had these blue lights on it, though, so I'm unsure if it was deliberately going for a minimalist look or if it wasn't completely decorated. It was still fairly early in November, so I'm guessing the latter.

It's hard to see, but our car was covered in ice the morning we left.

Another shot where the ice is just as difficult to see. The car just looks wet, but trust me, it's frozen over.